Sunday, April 23, 2006

19 Apr Heading to Neah Bay

While the forecast was for rain, when we woke, the skies were gray but the tops of the Olympics were clear, a good sign. It really wouldn’t have mattered, if you let the rain stop you in Washington, you would never get anywhere. After a leisurely breakfast, we pulled out from our now, new favorite RV park, Rainbows End RV in Sequim. If you want a place that has a tad bit more room than a normal parking lot RV park, and some mighty friendly staff, this is the place. I highly recommend it. The only one complaint that I might have is that they did ask the age of our rig and a gentleman who lives there on a monthly basis said they didn’t allow older rigs….but the neighboring rig was a beautiful retro (probably mid 70ies) Silver Streak 5th Wheel that was very cool looking. Wish we had taken a picture of it as it had so much character.

The trip to Neah Bay was more exciting for DH who was sitting on the passenger side looking over the high cliffs, praying that I would stay off the edge. Hwy 112 is narrow and there were places that looked and felt torn up and signs warning of slides and washouts, (didn’t help Roy’s attitude at all). We averaged about 30 MPH as we switch-backed around one hairpin curve after another. Lucky the traffic was light and there were places to pull over for folks to pass. I will be darned if I know how those big rigs negotiate those curves…Wow

We arrived about noon and found our destination; The Cove Motel and RV Park. There were a number of places listed on the internet and the Cove was the third place I called and the first to answered the phone. Turned out to be the best of the bunch, the park looked just like a park and it was nearly empty, another RV and some tenter;s who were packing up to go were our only neighbors.

Neah Bay is on the Makah Reservation and we paid a $10 annual fee to be there. That was fine, we didn’t mind as long as the money went to help this sad little town. The Makah’s land takes up most of the corner of the Olympic Peninsula, but it is about a 1/10 of what once was. Smallpox nearly wiped the tribe out and they got the short end of the treaty ‘stick’ also, both thanks to the white man’s westward march.

The rain was just beginning, so we downed our raincoats and walk the half mile to the Makah Museum. What a great museum, it had artifacts from two archeological sites, a 3000 year old village they found near Clallam Bay, (east of Neah Bay) and Ozette, another village found in 1977. It had been built against a cliff on the beach and a wall of mud triggered by an ancient earthquake, destroying it. A great storm uncovered it and archeologists have been there ever since. Those artifacts are now at the Makah Museum and also a replica of the longhouses they built and lived in. It’s a great museum and one which I would highly recommend if you brave the road that is.

Tomorrow, we explore more of Neah Bay.

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